For Hood by Air’s fall 2015 presentation, the most eye-catching detail wasn’t necessarily part of the clothes. Instead, it was in the hair, makeup — and yes, stocking that nearly every model wore over their heads.
“We’re creating references, new concepts. We’re trying to install a certain type of people into the Hood by Air brand and concept who might not be exposed to it,” explained lead hairstylist Amy Farid of the graphic shapes she created with each model’s hair, adding that the only reference they looked to was the idea of a prison (think Orange Is the New Black). “We’re constantly playing with identity, sexuality — and incorporating it all into the collection.”
Using a mix of gel products, sumo wax and thickening spray from Bumble and Bumble, Farid gave some models finger waves, some with tightly sculpted hair on the forehead and down on the face and others with a deeper side part. More than anything, she noted “all [looks] are really gelled, styled with your finger.”
After getting their hair done and putting the stockings on, models had makeup drawn onto the pantyhose.
Makeup artist Inge Grognard wanted to “make the face sharper because it softens everything out. We decided to go for the drawing of the face to make it more sharp, more edgy.” Depending on the hairstyle — short hair received painted sideburns, and longer locks got more of a contoured face — Grognard switched between the MAC eyeliner and eyebrow pencil (both in ebony or coffee color) for drawing on the hosiery. Eyebrows were also drawn on with strong lines in upward strokes.
No makeup was done under the skin because “the stocking already makes a beautiful face. When you put light on the stocking, you see a very soft face, so it wasn’t necessary to put makeup on it,” said the beauty expert, who noted that only three models weren’t required to wear pantyhose, so they had a “very bare” face.
To top off the slightly disturbing (albeit interesting) look, Hood by Air designer Shayne Oliver had models wear grills with braces and locks.
Behind-the-scene photos courtesy of Stephanie Chan